payment for someone felling your trees

[oldclaypaws]

When coppicing hazel - do you normally cut all the old growth down to the stump or just the bigger stems?

I think you need some books Smojo, they'll answer many of your questions. Just taking occasional big stems and leaving the rest is I believe called 'draw coppicing'. You will get some regrowth, but not as vigorous as when you cut the lot to the ground. Another key factor is light, to maximise regrowth you need to maximise light, so decents sized areas or 'cants' are usually cleared, so the shoots aren't shaded. I sometimes leave 2 or 3 smaller whips just so part of the tree is generating food for the roots, but clear 90% of it. Clearing a large area also gives a surge in wild flowers, insects and birds, which is one of the features and potential attractions of the coppicing system.

Books. They are useful. (Titles as previously mentioned).

[Dexter's Shed]

or, just use the WWW or you tube, when we bought our plot it was very daunting, and for a nano second I thought s*** what have I done
but just take a step back, theres no rush to get started straight away, take your time to have a wander and get a feel for your wood, most questions you need answers for can either be found here, or you tube, or can wait till another day

[SimonFisher]

A problem with YouTube is that you can get lots of "I do it this way" with no real assurance that you're getting "the best way". Books will often explain the why bit or detail something that might have been overlooked in a DIY video.

[oldclaypaws]

There's a third way of learning; practical experience and courses. A combo is perhaps the best balance; books, web and experience. In three years Smojo you'll be giving pearls of wisdom to Newbies. You never stop learning, theres so much to absorb, but if you approach it with patience and an inquisitive enthusiasm (which you have in plenty!) its great fun. It surprises me how little I knew before I had a wood, and the same could be said for the rest of the populous. My father was horrified when I said I might have a go at the squirrels or deer, and thought that it was tragic I had no Rhododendrons. The great thing about the Forum is the diversity of members, woods and skills; its a shared experience and we can pool opinions, theres always someone on here knows about the most technical or obscure subjects.

[smojo]

Simon - thanks for the links to the good books. I'm starting to collect a few - some of it quite heavy reading and more about the understanding of trees and growth and management but not so much about the everyday practicalities of tasks. I'll put those on my wish list, they look good. Yeah Youtube is great for many thinks but can leave you confused as to which way is best.

[quotefor a nano second I thought s*** what have I done ][/quote]

Yeah starting to get that feeling too. Went on a foraging day out yesterday (a Christmas/birthday present from my daughter - I highly recommend it, I'll post something about it elsewhere). I mentioned to some of the folks I was buying a wood. A few asked me "what do you intend doing in it". For a moment I had to think hard to give a good answer. I know why in my head but when you try to sum it up to a stranger it starts to sound a bit crazy (as my wife thinks).

Another key factor is light, to maximise regrowth you need to maximise light

The hazel is mostly near the south border of my plot so I reckon it's in the lightest spot. A bit of brush clearing there will help too. Hoping to plant some more and some other species for coppice too eventually.

Hope I'm not becoming a nuisance asking all these questions. Raring to go and until I get the keys all I can do is research and plan and as I'm pretty much on my own with this at home, it's great to chew the fat with you guys. I appreciate that.

[Lenny]

What a great idea, I have had some great results for coppicing Sycamore, one of the best trees for re-generation, you'll have several meters of growth after a seasons growth!! I have been cutting coppice at knee height. Two reasons, One is the trees have evolved over time to cope with beavers felling, they never fell at ground level as the trees are thinner at about 30cm from the ground level, and it's convenient for them. The second point would be that the tree itself has (at knee height) more stored energy and carbohydrates, and will therefor be more able to cope with the loss of foliage and timber.

I have seen a lot of contract cutting bellow this height, this is mainly due to the age old fact that timber equals money, and they are missing the long term point. the reason we're doing it is to keep production over the generations! So make sure this is stipulated before cutting happens.