hard Hazel blunting my chains

[oldclaypaws]

Had a conversation today with Radmores about the Timberline and my current issue of rock hard big overstood Hazel blunting my chains. It seems three times as hard as oak.

They strongly recommend the Timberline, they've sold loads including to professionals and have had very good reports back, apparently they do a far better job than a hand file and get the edge chain back to 'factory sharpness'. Little and often keeps the chain pin sharp.

Think I'll need one as my thick tough-as -iron Hazel is really taking it out of my chain. Its so hard it rapidly blunts the chain, which then gets very hot and consequently slack. Their advice was to use a thin oil such as a cheap car engine oil, which will flow far quicker than the sticky chain oil, and help cool the chain. When I pointed out the lack of eco-soundness to that approach, they said 'or just use neat rapeseed'. Its also thin.

Apparently a heated slack chain is hard to get an edge on as it might have lost the tempering from the overheating. They suggested I might have to chuck it and get another, and another, and another. (£ £ ka-chink).

[SimonFisher]

I've split your post to a new topic.

What chain are you using? Is it a full-chisel chain? A semi-chisel chain should I understand retain an acceptable cutting edge for longer when cutting hard wood. I was advised of this only last week when talking to a professional. I'm told that many outlets will sell saws with full-chisel chains as the user who knows no different will keep going back for more chains - k'ching k'ching.

As for chain oil, I switched to Stihl BioPlus recently for it's environmental credentials and noted that compared to the previous traditional mineral based oil I was using, the BioPlus is a lot thinner. Do you have an oil-flow control on your MS261? On my MS260 it's a recessed screw on the underside. Personally I'd rather use an oil that's been designed, engineered, made and blended to lubricate a fast moving chain in high friction environment. I'm not convinced that plain vegetable oil is likely to have the required attributed.

[oldclaypaws]

That's really useful Simon. Before you mentioned it I had no idea about semi-chisel. Wikipedia quote;

Full chisel chain has a square cornered tooth, splitting wood fibers easily in the cut for fast, efficient cutting in clean softwood. Semi-chisel chain has a rounded working corner formed by a radius between the top and side plates. While slower than full chisel in softwood, it retains an acceptable cutting sharpness longer, making it the preferred choice for dirtier wood, hard or dry wood, frozen wood or stump work, all of which would rapidly degrade full chisel chain.

Its not impossible but it doesn't seem that easy to track down a semi-chisel in the UK, they seem to be more of a professional chain, more freely available in the USA. I found Oregon 22BPX on FRJones at about £14, cheaper in bulk 100ft reels, and Stihl Rapid Micro aka RM or yellow are around, but not exactly common. I did eventually find a couple in my size on Evilbay, and theres also one by 'Archer' and another by 'Carlton' which both claim to be similar to a Oregon 22. Prices are £9 Archer, £12 Carlton, £20 Stihl RM. Interestingly I can get 10 Oregon 22's from the USA including shipping for £102, or £10 / each.

A standard round file or sharpener such as the Timberline will do the same job on the semi chisel as a full chisel blade.

Will definetly give one a go as I'm mainly up against old dirty oak and Hazel, really appreciate you passing on that info. Will also try some Stihl Bio and maybe take the plunge on a Timberline following Radmores glowing recommendation.

Having the right kit and sharp makes life so much easier, you can cut three times as fast and its a lot less effort too, so money very well spent.

[SimonFisher]

Yes, FR Jones (my regular supplier) has Oregon 22BPX listed: -

http://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products-page/consumables/chains-bars-scabbards/chain-loops/

I'm actually just about to make the change myself to a semi-chisel chain myself, though not because I'm experiencing any cutting or blunting problems. I was taking to a professional that I know about a periodic problem I have where the nose sprocket in my bar (Stihl Rollomatic E) seizes. I've posted on the forum about this before. It's happened to me maybe three or four times in the few years. Chainsaw is cleaned and fine before I start, and chain oil is flowing as it should, then suddenly during a felling session with no warning, the chain locks up. It happened last a week gone Sunday while felling some oaks, writing off an 18" bar. I quizzed my contact and he suggested I switch to an Oregon Pro Lite bar. It has a serviceable nose sprocket which can be greased, and I believe replaced too. He also suggested I'd be better off with the semi-chisel chain. I have been using Oregon 22LPX which is full-chisel. Anyway, I left it to him to get me a bar, couple of chains and some grease. I'll pick them up sometime next week. I'm guessing it'll be Oregon 22BPX chain he's got me but I won't know until I get it.

[SimonFisher]

Interestingly I can get 10 Oregon 22's from the USA including shipping for £102, or £10 / each.

Beware though, it's possible that you'll have to pay additional duties/taxes and a handling fee when it arrives in the UK. There does seem to be an element of chance as to whether your parcel gets picked for such extra treatment.

[oldclaypaws]

Order placed for a couple of Oregon 22BPX's and 5 litres of Oregon Bio oil. Looking forward to the chains, sounds like a good move considering what I'm cutting.

I had my bar seize too when it was getting hot. I think it was a vicious cycle of chain blunting, getting hot, oil burning off, not enough lubrication (and chain blunts more). I'd touched the floor a couple of times going through the oak too which wouldn't help, so it was a perfect storm for the saw of hard thick old dirty wood and grit, yummy.

[SimonFisher]

I had my bar seize too when it was getting hot...

A write-off or did you manage to get it working again? I've tried freeing a seized nose sprocket but never with success.

[oldclaypaws]

I took the chain off, oiled it, tapped the sprocket lightly with the tensioning spanner to free it, span it round a few times, ran it without any cutting for a minute to get the oil well bedded, and it was OK. The tipping factor for the seizing was probably that it was getting slack and was pinched slightly while cutting too.