Choosing a first chainsaw

[Justin]

Hello all,

I'm in the process of buying a farm which has 6.5 acres of broadleaf woodland that we plan to manage as part of our proposed campsite down in Devon. There are two woodburning stoves in the house and we plan to harvest wood for use in those. I'm going to need a chainsaw obviously for logging and for management/maintenance. I'm going to go on a course to learn to use it properly but most courses seem to expect you to bring a chainsaw with you so I need to buy one first.

Is there a recommended size/brand etc for this sort of work or where might I best enquire as to what I'm likely to need.

Discovered today that the land also includes a stand of (I think, but need to double check) mature (15-20 year old we believe) larch trees, about 90 of them that we'll want to fell. I'm not going attempt that myself, will get the professionals in but expect I'd be cleaning up the trees once they're down prior to milling them. The plan is to use them, if suitable, to build the decks for our bell tents and yurts, and also possibly to keep some as large timbers to frame the planned office/reception/shop to go on the site and mill some trees to use as wany edged larch to clad the building. If we can do that it would have incredibly low inherent energy. Fell/mill/frame all on site

Would one chainsaw be suitable for all of this or do I need different sizes. Sorry if these are newbie questions but I didn't see them elsewhere on the forum.

Thanks,

Justin.

[Whatisheatnow]

If your larch trees are mature they must be more than 15-20 years old but certainly you should try to use them. What diameter are they? As for choosing a chainsaw the two most important things are your own strength and fitness and the depth of your pocket. Pick a saw that feels just a little too heavy at first and you should develop the muscle for it with use. A "cheap" chainsaw is a false economy. The better ones are more likely to start after a long lay-off for one thing and will be in the repair shop less often. I bought a Husqvarna 365 a few years ago and it is really good. I've done a huge amount of work with it including first thinning and logging 13 acres of ash (about 6,000 sixteen year old trees) and it still looks and works like new. I did have to buy a new bar (for the saw, not to drink in). Precise measuring of the fuel mix is also most important for long engine life. Also good edging technique will spare you and your saw a lot of hardship. I know I am stating the obvious but we are all inclined to ignore these things. Best of luck with your new acquisition and lifestyle.

[MartinB]

I have a Husqvarna 550XP and it is the dog's danglies.
Not cheap by any means but it cuts brilliantly.
I have a 13" bar on it and it trucks through anything I throw at it.

I'm probably pointing out the obious but don't use a saw until you have all the necessary PPE.
Trousers that are rated at AT LEAST the chain speed of your saw, helmet, and gloves and boots are the bare minimum.

[The Barrowers]

Hello
Husqvarna are much more macho and good looking (I know that's a bit shallow)
Very good saws, we have 2, His and Hers, both with the TAC handles which is the additional chain break on the throttle end
Both are reliable and robust (We are a confused pair as we wear Stihl trouser)
Buy a good set of trousers as you can not replace legs

B and T

[Justin]

Thanks very much for the replies. I've been and joined arbtalk and spent yesterday firing questions back and forth. Seems to be the same advice everywhere: Get trained (planning on NCPT 30/31), get PPE (goes without saying in my world, full set of boots/trousers/helmet/gloves etc) and either a Stihl MS261 or Husky 550xp/560xp.

Have found the trees are actually sitka spruce, about 30 years old, hoping to use them for framing a new office/reception/shop building in a year or two