I know some of you out there have experience of these things. I have just purchased a logosol timberjig It seems very good but slow if I was paying myself minimum wage I would be in a deficit position. So okay I am using a very cheap and nasty Chineese 24 inch saw with a standard chain, but it is going vroom so it is doing something. The question is would the purchase of a sexy new stihl 660 and a ripping chain be worthwhile or would I just be able to ponder the expense of it all as I wait for it to chew its way through the wood. My last attempt has been on some fresh felled Alder only about 9 inches cut. I have a big chunk of Ash to cut which is more like 20" and I am not sure whether there will be enough daylight hours between now and Christmas!
Chain saw mill
(16 posts)-
Posted 1 month ago #
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Hi Woodbodger,
I would try a ripping chain before you splash out. I think these are basically the same as a cross cutting chain, but sharpened at 10 degrees, instead of 35 or whatever. I have the same timber jig, but haven't tried it out yet, I was told when I bought it thought that a ripping chain more or less essential and keep it well maintained! It' a long time to Christmas!Rich
Posted 1 month ago # -
Ripping chains have alternate vertical cutters, followed by a clearing cutter and are considerably more efficient than crosscut chains.
But never attempt to use a ripping chain for crosscutting.Posted 1 month ago # -
I have a logosol setup (m7)
The ms660 is immensly powerful (91cc) and will probably be far quicker than your current saw, I guess that's why logosol recommend them. A bit pricey but one of if not the best saws in the world.
Ripping chains are basically the same as x-cut chains but filed down at 10 degrees
I bought 4 rip and 2 x-cut chains from logosol (all stihl chains) and they are exactly the same bar the sharpening angle
Richard - not sure why you are saying never attempt to use a ripping chain for x-cutting, in my experience they work but not as well!. I have felled pine and milled it on the spot using same chain and no problems.Posted 1 month ago # -
hi
in reality ,it's all down to how well (as in correctly)one sharpens the chain ,and knowing when to take the rakers down a bit.
Just to (hopefully !)clear up the chain-type confusion , think it's fair to say that there are 3 types being discussed ;
1) as Richard describes ,probably the business ,but never used them myself .possible increased risk of kickback ,thus the recommendation to not use for x-cutting
2), and 3)- as Davetaz describes .
would agree with dave's last comment too ,green softwoods don't put up much of a fight .whole new ball game re seasoned oak/chestnut !(/ash !)ps -planking 9 inch green alder ,one should be progressing at a fair walking pace ,at the very least , even with a £90 machine mart saw .........................as long as the chain is cared for !
Posted 1 month ago # -
DaveTaz
I clearly described a different type of milling chain
Its available from
www.alaskanmill.co.ukPosted 1 month ago # -
Thanks for the help, I have ordered an electric sharpener so that I can get those angles right and see what the improvement is, as I see it there is no need at this moment to buy a pucker ripping chain just sharpen the old one. It is not that I am mean ( I am) but This saw is going as soon as I can afford a decent stihl.
Posted 1 month ago # -
I was told by a chainsaw dealer those electric sharpners are a waste of money. As they don't sharpen as good by hand.
Posted 1 month ago # -
Hi there
On the subject of chain sharpening, have you considered an Oregon filing guide http://www.willisandgrabham.co.uk/gardenequipment.php?gardensafety=1272.
I have used one of these for many years-they work perfectly,are easy to set-up and do a really good job.Posted 1 month ago # -
Yes Adrian I think you are right, I have used the dremel type sharpener for years but there is an issue with the stone wearing down and so no longer being the correct diameter, examining the previous mentioned chain on my cheapo saw with a magnifying glass reveals that it had not been sharpened right into the hard edge of the blade, I shall keep this sharpener for touching up in the wood and hopefully this new disc sharpener, similar to those used by the dealers who charge lots of money to sharpen saws will do the business: I hope to report in a couple of days that I have sharpened to Alaskan mill spec and that the saw is going through the wood as though it was driven by Stirling moss not Eddy the Eagle.
Posted 1 month ago # -
Sharpened the chain to a chisel tip, seems like I removed half the tooth but it cuts much cleaner and at just about 1 foot per min which is faster but I think I should be looking for 2 ft per min so now it's down to the chain saw. It has to be said the portek sharpener does a fabulously accurate job in my opinion much better than a file or the rotary sharpener, I have had a blitz and sharpened every single chain I have!
Posted 1 month ago # -
Hi Woodbodger,
I've steered clear of too much gadgetry for chain sharpening, but it was drummed into us on a chainsaw course recently how important a correctly maintained chain is to the overall running of the saw and of course the efficiency it cuts with. Since then I seem to be spending a lot of time alone in the shed! Just wondering if this Portek sharpener is a time saver, or just better at getting accurate results. I use a simple guide and usually 3 or 4 swipes on a new file is sufficient, takes me 10 or 15 minutes if I have to take down the depth guages as well. If I chip a cutter and have to take the rest down it's a lot longer (and usually I try and get away without doing it - seems such a waste of a chain!)Is this sharpener quicker on routine sharpening or quicker for taking all the cutters down to the same size? I think I'm getting better with my sharpening so probably wouldn't bother with one unless it saved a lot of time.
cheers
RichPosted 1 month ago # -
I think you could get through chains quite fast using this sharpener, but having said that It does cut the teeth extremely accurately and consistently far better, I think, than, file with guide or the rotary stone. Examining the teeth of the chain with a magnifying glass there were a lot of inconsistencies and poor angles that this quickly put right, now for a while I will dress it with a file until I feel the there is a need for more drastic sharpening and believe me it is fast and accurate.
Posted 1 month ago # -
Anyone milling would benefit by reading this and many of the older threads on the subject by people who know what they are talking about & problem solving.
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http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/alaskan-mill/18848-help-specification-alaskan-mill-saw.htmlPosted 1 month ago # -
Hi Woodbodger,
Does your Portek adjust the depth gauges? What model is it?
I fancy a new gadget to make sure my chains are more consistent every now and again but it is not clear to me if these sharpeners do the whole job or just the cutters.
Thanks,
Adam.Posted 1 month ago # -
hi it's only the smallest cheapest portek sharpener the "mini chainmaster". No it only cuts the teeth but does this very effectively and they are all then exactly the same so from time to time it will still be necessary to take down the gauges. I must admit to being well impressed with this device and I will be putting my rotary dremel type in moth balls ( been using it and it's kin for over 20 years.) This sets it up so nicely i am going to revert to a file for polishing in the field.
Posted 1 month ago #
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