Aug 10 Chainsaw rig, by Woodtroll
I have built a chainsaw rig out of my own timber which holds a stack of logs 1 metre high, off the ground.
The width of the stack is dependent on the length of your chainsaw blade (mine is 45cm). The rig is solid enough to take lengths anything from a metre upwards, for longer lengths it just a matter of balance.
I have cut 3 metre lengths easily. The advantage of this method is that you only have to start up the chainsaw once after you have loaded the rig and then cut through the whole pile in one go as many times as is needed to make it into the lengths that you want. This means the chainsaw is not idling whilst you are moving one log around. I can cut up 1 cubic metre in about 20 mins.
The rig is made only of wood so that any encounter with the chainsaw does not damage the chain and all parts are replaceable. The basic design is an adjustable oak stand with legs and four upright hazel poles that holds the logs. It demountable and light so I can take it to wherever the timber is. People even pay me good money to cut up their wood piles using it!!
Here is how I made it:
2 Oak (or other strong wood) bearers 4″x3″x35″
1 oak cross tie 2.5″x1.5″x42″
4 Hazel poles 2.5″diameter x42″
4 Hazel legs 2.5″diameter x15″
2 Oak pegs (with top knob) 1″diameter x 5″
(All hole measurements are between centres)
1. Cut a 3.5″ deep blind mortise 2.5″x1.5″ in the 3″ side of the right oak bearer.
2. Cut a through mortise 2.5″x1.5″ in the 3″ side of the left oak bearer.
3. Place the oak cross tie through the left mortise and into the right blind mortise. Once the cross tie is snugly seated in the blind mortise, drill (or auger) a 1″ hole down completely through both pieces of wood. The hole should be 2” from the open end of the mortise.
4. Position the cross tie in the left bearer, at the distance you find is most convenient for the length of logs to be cut, then drill a hole down through both pieces of wood at the centre point of the mortise (21″ from the centre of the first hole is a good start). More holes can be added in the cross tie later at oft used positions.
5. The leg holes can now be drilled underneath at a slight angle to give a better spread and more stability. They should be 3” in from the ends of the bearers about 2” deep.
6. Drill 2″ holes completely through for the hazel uprights on the top side of each bearer. These depend on the length of chainsaw blade to be used; the width of the stack must be less than the length of the blade. (Also a less powerful chainsaw will have difficulty cutting though a thick stack, allow for this when deciding how thick!) The front hole needs to be 5″ back from the peg holes to allow the chainsaw to cut the stack cleanly and not the cross tie. The rear holes you must decide upon yourself, but they must not interfere with the legs.
7. Draw knife the leg and pole ends to fit into their holes.
8. Put it all together with the pegs.
You can read more about this and saw horse designs on the forum.
Mike uses a similar design to cut larger logs.
Any more brilliant creations for us to see? Send us photos of your labour saving devices!